On Tue, 03 Jan 2006 14:15:56 +0000, Pete Thomas
<***@reply-via-site.com> wrote:
Firstly thanls again for all the replies ;-)
Post by Pete ThomasPost by T i mMy second nooby question of 2006 <g> is does one have the ligature(?)
clap screws at the top or the bottom?
Beware clap screws at all costs.
Ok, will do, what if they were claMp screws then? (damn you eBay
keyboard!) ;-)
Post by Pete ThomasMy prefernce with the traditional brass (Selmer) type ligs is to have
the screws where the reed is, you can have them at the top as long as
the reed is held nicely.
I'm not sure what 'type' this one is but it's an 1-1/8" wide thin
brass looking strip bent into a slight cone (to match the profile of
the unknown plastic mouthpiece) and the 'gap' adjusted (tightened)
with two finger screws set across the gap?
Because the material is so thin it could bee seen as a 'tension strap'
and therefore (in theory) it wouldn't matter where the gap was? Of
course there would be no pressure excerted under the (1/8") gap but
even when over the reed I can't see it having any negative impact as
the reed is quite thick so would distribute the pressure through the
reed and onto the table fairly evenly?
Post by Pete ThomasWhat would be bad is if you had the screws at
the top on this type of ligtaure, but the metal was only touching the
reed say at the outsides, this could cause the reed to not be held flat
on the table or even to warp. Brass being a fairly soft metal will
usually bend easily to the shape of the reed.
Which is sorta exactly how our setup would be if you want right facing
'adjustment' (What is 'adjustable' btw .. don't you just do-them-up
suitably)?
Post by Pete ThomasPost by T i mFrom a mechanical point of view I would think having the gap at the
top would support the reed better underneath?
Only if the metal was shaped very closely to the reed as mentioned above.
Understood .. and / or of the metal was thin enough to adopt the shape
of whatever it was tensioned around (like insulating tape) ?
All the best ..
T i m